我對黎巴嫩(Lebanese)料理 – 這個陌生的中東國度 – 的印象,還停留在多年前於溫哥華西區Nuba用餐的印象。
雖然那次的經驗後我的確上網查過黎巴嫩料理的特色,包含肉類以燒烤為主、大量使用橄欖油以及蔬果,麵包搭配鷹嘴豆泥…. 但是整體印象就是一個「酸」字。從沾醬、烹調的方式,都與刺激舌根負責酸味的味蕾有關。
這次受邀前往新開張的Yasma餐廳,讓我對黎巴嫩/敘利亞菜略有改觀。
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延伸閱讀
內外美兼具
Yasma位於溫哥華市中心煤港(Coal Harbour),兩層樓的建築有著先天的景觀優勢:面對Stanley Park的寬闊景色、入夜後住宅大樓的萬家燈火,以及停靠船舶的優閒海岸。不用入住,在此用餐就可以享受溫哥華最高級住宅區的景觀。
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搭配優美的戶外環境,Yasma的室內裝潢一點也不馬虎。最吸睛的是餐廳內側的吧檯,大片白色格子花窗作為天花飾板,與一盞玻璃吊燈呼應,在玻璃、黑色石材與數個八角金色托盤的裝飾,中東異國情調呼之欲出。用餐區隨興妝點的物件,如牆上琺瑯吊飾、髹金矮凳,也有畫龍點睛之妙。
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餐具、廚藝到配酒的講究
Yasma對於餐具也十分講究。用來盛盤食物的銅製淺盤有著細緻的波浪紋路,這是黎巴嫩工匠一釜一槌敲打出來,再空運來到溫哥華。陶瓷餐具則是溫哥華當地的工匠手捏而成,每個器皿都有著手作的質感。
Yasma的團隊其實大有來頭。年輕的主廚Kristina Walgenbach,原為溫市餐廳Dark Table的幕後廚師,疫情後她決定獨立開餐廳,展現自己精湛的中東廚藝。吧檯後的調酒師則是多次獲得世界調酒大獎的Sam Thornton,他為Yasma設計了一系列與中東料理搭配的雞尾酒品。
這晚Yasma的套餐包含了麵包、前菜、冷盤、肉品以及餐後甜點;Sam Thornton也調製了五款雞尾酒相襯。
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首遇高檔中東菜
首先,我必須承認嚐過Yasma後,我對中東食物只有「酸」的印象完全改觀;而一向被我排斥的鷹嘴豆泥(hummus)也變得容易親近。中東的麵包的質感比較接近印度薄餅,烤得蓬鬆卻有嚼勁,與鷹嘴豆泥搭配是中東人的主食。Yasma的鷹嘴豆泥口感滑順如絲,除了原味另一款以日曬番茄乾調味,沾著麵包吃,沒上完前菜我已經吃掉三大片!
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起司、橄欖油和蔬菜的大量使用是黎巴嫩菜的特色。塔布倫(Tabouleh Salad)則是道道地的中東沙拉,將歐芹(parsley)、洋蔥、番茄切丁切碎混拌,以檸檬汁調味,入口時略帶草味與辛辣,完全挑戰你對生菜沙拉的認識。
無肉不歡
羊肉與雞肉是中東料理較多採用的肉類。在羊肉上撒些胡椒、核桃碎片,淋上石榴糖蜜和橄欖油,這道生羊肉韃靼球吃來甜中帶辣,像在吃肉味的冰淇淋。兩道熱食肉品烤羊架和雞肉串都是以炭火烤製:雞肉火烤前以優格醃過,肉質果然細嫩;羊肉也得一個嫩字,沾醬再度用上石榴糖蜜。
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特別的是烤羊肉球,淋上黑櫻桃醬汁,用餅皮包起食用,與一般西式餐廳使用薄荷果凍不同,口感獨特。
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我比較無法接受的是那盤四道熱小食(mezzez),尤其是茄子涼拌捲肉和葡萄葉捲,都回到我害怕的酸味,咀嚼兩口就酸到頭皮發麻。
最後的甜點是果仁酥餅(baklava),千層酥皮在外,內層的果仁和著糖漿,是中東各國共通的甜食。Yasma的果仁酥餅的甜度依然超過亞洲味蕾的極限,不過以玫瑰水調味,才咬一小口玫瑰香氣在口中縈繞,滲入鼻腔。
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用餐完走出餐廳,煤港海邊的街燈亮起,隔著海灣西溫的燈火披在山坡上,口中中東餘味未散,身體已被北美冬季的寒氣包圍。
備註
海馬老爸試吃的Yasma套餐菜單如下。套餐每人$89,另有單點菜單可選擇。
- Labneh ball with Aleppo zaatar 陳年優格球、醃橄欖
- Hummus with fresh housemade bread 麵包與鷹嘴豆泥
- Tabouleh Salad 塔布倫沙拉
- Kibbeh Niyah and Muhammara 生羊肉韃靼
- A selection of warm mezzez 熱小食四款
- Yogurt marinated chicken breast 烤雞肉串
- Lamb chop on charcoal on babba ganouch 炭烤羊架
- Cherry kebab 櫻桃醬烤羊肉球
- Baklawa 果仁酥餅
Yasma
Address: 550 Denman St, Vancouver, BC V6G 3H1
Phone: (604) 566-0493