{列治文采風} 吹拂百年海風,走進史帝文思頓漁人碼頭

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『漁人碼頭』這樣的景點,在世界各地靠海的城市不難找到。最知名的舊金山的漁人碼頭,早已從捕魚的小碼頭演化成巨大、熱鬧、車水馬龍的觀光景點。

一樣是個海風吹襲的漁人碼頭,如果小一點、沈靜一點、散發著古老的氣息,會讓你更想要親近她嗎?

距離溫哥華30分鐘的車程,位於列治文市南端的史帝文思頓正是這樣一座迷人的碼頭。

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菲沙河(Fraser River)河口波光粼粼、桅杆林立、海鳥翱翔。史帝文思頓漁村(Steveston Historic Fishing Village)一百多年來安安靜靜地座落在這河流的出海口 — 1878年,一位名為Manoah Steves 的男子攜家帶眷抵達此地,開創奶牛飼養場維生。子裔在此繁衍壯大,這塊土地因以其姓氏命名。

1890年代,菲沙河的鮭魚製罐廠陸續在此落籍,開啟了史帝文思頓繁榮之路。十九世紀末大量日本移民群聚於此,帶來鯉魚飄以及和食風,添加了異國的風情。

時移事往,歷史中各種繁華恩怨皆已遠離,如今史帝文思頓成為大溫地區民眾吹海風、賞美景的好處去。在滲出歷史古味的街角,在春筍般冒出的新建築裏,吃喝、賞玩、買海鮮,任君選擇。

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能買什麼?這裏沒有大型量販店,更別提百貨公司,但是你絕對可以在碼頭上買到剛捕獲不久的漁獲。碼頭上?沒錯!每到週末假日,漁人們把捕漁船停靠在碼頭上,一艘接一艘,當場打開冷藏庫,船邊擺陣開來就地叫賣。甜蝦、鮭魚、比目魚、石斑等繽紛入列,不僅新鮮,價格更是比一般超市低上一截。海膽是眾攤裡的亮點  — 三顆只要加幣$10,橙色的海膽肉在一顆顆撥開烏黑的海膽殼裡吸引遊客目光。從碼頭這一頭逛到另一端,不少遊人人手數袋,想來週末的晚餐該是海鮮滿桌。

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賞玩什麼?在史帝文斯頓公園鄰近一號路,有座紅色小屋,裡面展示了百年前從此處開往溫哥華市的老火車。你可以摸摸厚實的木製火車車身,坐上車廂裡古老藤編的座位,或是和一旁的服務人員聊聊這老車的歷史。舊時的鮭魚罐頭工廠(Gulf of Georgia Cannery)早已停工,以博物館的樣貌面市。從博物館出口走出,不僅了解當年手工製造鮭魚罐頭的流程,也才瞭解原來百年前加拿大的鮭魚罐頭產業如此蓬勃,曾外銷遠至夏威夷、亞洲甚至蘇聯等國家。

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一百年前原為老銀行的小屋外表仍然維持數十年前的奶油黃,孤孤單單地站在街邊。現已改為郵局、遊客資訊中心和博物館(Steveston Museum)的複合式空間。小小的空間裡陳列當年銀行的格局和辦公文具,樓上則是還原行長的家庭生活 — 小女孩愛不釋手的手製洋娃娃、老媽媽古董級的廚房…. 件件都讓人穿梭歷史,發思古之幽情。

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如果喜歡動態的活動,出海賞鯨是個好選擇。跳上賞鯨船,乘風破浪出海,殺人鯨和海豹正在外海等著你欣賞。

說到吃和喝,怎能錯過此地最有名的英式炸魚餐?喜歡在戶外享受炸魚和薯條大餐的人,千萬不要錯過漂浮在海上甲板上的Pajo’s炸魚店(點店名看食記)。來份用報紙捲起如日式手捲般的套餐,插在店家特殊設計的洞洞裝矮桌上,讓陽光炙身,讓海風拂臉,看海鷗斜飛掠過。想好整以暇坐在餐廳裡享用細嫩的魚塊,在老街上歷史悠久的炸魚店Dave’s Fish & Chips是另一個選擇。

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想喝咖啡?那有什麼問題!你可以選擇在熱鬧的一號路上的 Bean & Beynd Cafe來杯熱騰騰的illy coffee,也可以散步到五百公尺外的老街上,老舊木造房子住著Steveston Coffee Company(點店名看食記)來杯自家烘焙的咖啡也挺香醇。

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想逛二手書店的,Village Books and Coffee House擁書上萬,咖啡香瀰漫書架間。喜歡現代裝潢的,Rocanini Coffee Roasters挑高的空間,精緻的燈光、沿街整面落地玻璃明的氣氛,讓人想找個靠窗的位子坐下,手握一杯拿鐵,看街景看人,看一輩子也甘心。

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所以,如果你問我漁人碼頭哪裡好玩,我不會建議你去舊金山,不要去西雅圖; 強烈建議你走一趟史帝文斯頓,讓柔柔海風為你導覽,來個悠閒的海邊小鎮之旅。

Steveston Historic Fishing Village

http://www.stevestonivillage.com/

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  • Pauline Lin

    As before, your lovely photos always tell a good story~ Thank you! There are some other interesting attractions that you may not notice in Steveston Village. Steveston is actually one of the most artists’ favorite place, (like White Rock), as one artist association has connected the artists whose paintings have been focused on the marine, boats, fish…. Thanks to that, this small historic village has naturally been colored and filled with very stylish and artistic tourism charm~ Many local sucessful decor stores, hand-crafted jewelry and gifts shops are the wonderful places for treasure hunting; particularly along Moncton Street, Nikaido and Pieces are two of my favorite; they’ve been there over 15 – 20 years or longer. Don’t miss the most well-known Timothy Frozen Yogurt on the harbour too~ You’ll get another fresh unique experience next time~ Cheers! Pauline

    • Hi Pauline, appreciate your kind words and reminding. I do know there are several dessert shop and good restaurants in Steveston, though I don’t have chance to taste them all. I might write another article about the gourmets in this fantastic area. As for the artists’ studio and relevant stores, indeed I have no idea about them. You just gave me a concrete reason to visit Steveston more. Definite will go visit the stores you suggested next time.
      Thanks a gain and wish you a happy new year!

      • Pauline Lin

        No problem, you’ve been doing an awesome job already! With your enthusiasm and beautiful photos on your blog, I think that it must have pampered a lot of viewers and supplied many good sources for our city adventures ~ I couldn’t appreciate more for your efforts and heart!! Happy New Year to you and your loved ones!! Pauline